Tag Archive: Taipei


Yes. Jackass. They do. Seriously, this isn’t the BFE for crying outloud.

Finding books in English can be tough when you live abroad.

In Poland, I had to scrounge for books. I read all sorts of crap that I wouldn’t normally read because I was so desperate to get my read on. I spent excessive amounts of time online because I was running out of options. Although some bookstores in Poland sell English books (Empik had an ok selection), I was watching my pennies, and those books didn’t come cheap. Most of their English selection was either from the U.K. or old.

Before I left Poland, I resolved that my next big purchase would be a Kindle. Might as well. I live abroad and hauling books from country to country isn’t feasible. What’s the point of buying a bunch of crap I neither need nor can take? I’m glad I live in a time in which regardless of where I live, with the right technology, I can have all the comforts of home.

Occasionally, I’ll hit the bookstore and spend a ridiculous amount of money on books I’ll probably only read once.

I know of two major bookstores in Taipei that sell English fiction: Page One (in Taipei 101) and Eslite (located all over town). Take my word for it: don’t waste your time on Eslite. It fucking sucks. All their English books are shelved with the Chinese books and it’s impossible to find anything without the maximal amount of irritation. I cannot fathom the logic that inspired this brilliant marketing strategy. Thanks, Eslite, you stupid douche bags. So much for your awesome 24-hour bookstore.

Page One is cool. They have a fair amount of English fiction and are up to date on the most popular authors. If Taipei 101 wasn’t such a drag to get to, I’d go there more.

Consequently, I’ve resorted to the old time-honored method of scavenging through my friends’ collections.

Luckily, last February, I made a couple of friends who loved reading and happened to house their own mini-library. Thanks to them, I’ve been introduced to both great new books and old classics I would never otherwise have read. Still, I feel guilty when I hold ten of their books hostage for months at a time.

A few months ago, I was informed that certain libraries in Taipei have English book sections. I couldn’t believe it! My dreams come true. I realized then that the main library didn’t have a metro nearby so I never got around to visiting it. Months passed. Dongmen Station eventually opened near Da’an Park, not too far from the main library. By that time, I had forgotten about the library. I had a borrowed stack of books taking up space at home, and a new stack from Page One that I was ready to dive into. Who remembers the library anymore anyway? Although I spent countless joyful hours at the library in my youth, by my late twenties it had become more convenient to buy books at the bookstore. The temptation to buy the specific books I wanted was greater than browsing through shelves full of authors I didn’t know, and I forgot about the library.

Fast forward to a couple of weeks ago. I was talking to a couple of friends at dinner, and they suggested the library. I knew I should go. They asked if I wanted to get together and make a trip out of it later that weekend. Well, fuck yeah, I did.

So we all met on Sunday to embark on our dazzling library adventure. By the time we met on Sunday our little group had grown from three to six. I had no idea I had so many nerdy friends. After a Dim Sum lunch we booked it across the park to find the damn thing.

I wasn’t sure what to expect. Do Taiwanese people read? Would there be strange Asian art on the walls? Little Japanese-style tables and cushions? Would they hassle me for not having two forms of ID and refuse to give me a library card? My stomach was a bundle of nerves as I waited with breathless anticipation.

As soon as we walked in, I could smell the scent of old ink and paper. It looked like a library. It smelled like a library. A bunch of irritating kids was running around to my annoyance. Yep. I was home.

We made our way up to the fourth floor where the English book section was housed. The place was packed. Well, that’s strange…I thought.

The floor has a large area in the center filled with chairs and tables, and damned if every single seat wasn’t taken. Tons of people were studying. It reminded me of hanging out in the university library when I was in college. During Finals week. Right before my exam.

We ventured into the English book section. I’m happy to report they have several aisles of pure fiction. I was impressed.

I knew finding the latest and greatest probably wasn’t going to happen, but I found a few new books published just last year. In short order I had a stack of eight books. My friends all looked at me like I had grown another head. “Are you really going to get ALL of those?” they asked. “Well…yeah. What the fuck? A girl can’t read or what?”

As a kid, every time I went to the library I would borrow seven or eight books, often more. I can easily finish a book in a day if I’m inclined to. And right now, I’m inclined to. It’s winter. The weather is crappy. It’s been cold and rainy out. Why tramp around in the rain when I could be reading nice and dry at home?

We hung around for a couple of hours and I started reading my first prize: Sh*t My Dad Says by Justin Halpern. I had it finished by the next day.

For those that actually live in Taipei, here are the facts: Only an ARC is required to get a library card. You can borrow books for five weeks, you can extend the due date on line as long as no one has put in a request for it and best of all…regardless of where you borrow the book, you can return it any location. That’s something the libraries at home should look into.

This, my friends, is the beginning of a new era. If you’ve been wondering what I’ve been doing for the month of January, you have your answer. My head’s been stuck in a book all month. I’m only surfacing now because I need to make a return trip already.

 

The Little Things Remind Me

Now that I’m in my second year of living in Taiwan the newness and shininess of living here has worn off with a vengeance. I realized one day as I was plodding along that life was starting to feel a bit dreary, commonplace, and…well, normal. I was going through the same motions as I did back in the States. I got up, went to work, went out with friends, came home, and repeated.

Where did all the awesome go? The exhilaration of not knowing what was around the next corner, of knowing that each day could lead to an exciting new discovery or new experience?

Such feelings cannot stay with us forever. If they did we wouldn’t need any changes in life and life would be full of surprising humor and titillating stories. Still…I couldn’t help feeling disappointed that suddenly my life revolved around dinners, movies, hanging out with friends, and work. Same old, same old. Did I move clear across the planet for this?

However, last week, as I was walking to work, I realized my eyes have been closed to the true meaning of living abroad. It took only one little experience to open my eyes to the wonder of the place in which I’m living. The magic is happening all around me as it has for the last two years, and I’m disappointed with myself for feeling that life has become so dull and ordinary when I’m  surrounded by more than I’ve ever had before.

In Taiwan an “alley” isn’t an alley as we picture it in the States. They’re tiny side streets that are too small to fit a car. Off every major thoroughfare and street, alleys abound. Alleys are where local eateries are often found, good parking spaces, and where most entrances to homes are located. Although they’re often too small to accommodate cars, scooters roar down these bad boys with no fear or hesitation.

I was walking to work as I do every day rain or shine. The ground was damp beneath my feet and clouds loomed over my head. I cut through the metro park that covers the underground metro mall between Zhongshan and Shuanglian at an angle, and headed into a tiny alley to avoid the crowds that inevitably amass near every metro station. I must confess that I often try different routes to work to spice up my day. Every time I do, I imagine I might find a new shop or restaurant that will revolutionize my life. What I usually find are trash, puddles, and a mangy stray dog or two.

On this particular occasion I saw a little girl on my right peeking out of the entrance of her building at me. She was wearing her school-girl uniform and a pink raincoat. Strapped to her back was a little pink backpack, no doubt with a Dora the Explorer or Hello Kitty design stenciled in. She gawked at me and I smiled at her wondering what she was doing when I noticed her mother on my other side readying the “car” to drive her to school. Except that it wasn’t a car because most people here don’t have one. No. Instead, she was digging around in the storage compartment underneath the seat of her scooter looking for a rain cover for the seat, probably.

I had to smile. Such a normal little thing, and yet, because I live in Taipei still so different. Unlike the States, where the kid would be peeking into the garage, lollygagging in the yard, or more likely, shoving his face with snacks while he sat playing ps in the back seat while mom fumbled around in her purse for the keys, here it’s a scooter. It is so profoundly the way of life here that kids hopping on the back of a scooter to grab a ride is the every day. As is watching a family of three, sometimes four, plus a dog puttering around on one tiny scooter. Safe? Oh sure. And completely commonplace. The amount of newborn babies I’ve seen cradled in the arms of their mothers, puttering around behind their husbands on the back of a scooter is ridiculous. The last time I saw this, the couple nearly got into a car accident. Safe? Obviously not. Regardless of safety, it is integral to the everyday, here. This observation opened my eyes. The newness and shininess of living in a new country and city may have worn off, but how could I have forgotten all the little things that are so different about Taipei?

Like the night I went out with a friend of mine to play pool and grab dinner. Aside from one other woman and a little girl hanging out with her dad and his friends, I was the only other woman in the entire place, and the only foreigner around. Women, apparently, don’t play pool here. Ever. How could I forget to mention that the pool hall was on the sixth floor of some rickety old building? Housed in the same building as a club, a number of diners, stores, and god only knows what else. Probably a hostess bar or two. Had not my friend taken me there I never would have suspected it existed.

When we headed out for dinner later to a little pizza place, hidden away in yet another towering building downtown, somewhere on the second floor, I noticed that the check in counter at the restaurant had a little button to call an attendant over. It was labeled “Sing-Call”. Because what would Taipei be without a bit of Chinglish? Every table had a little call button that had to be pressed when we wanted service. Ingenious.

I could give you a list numbering into the hundreds of all the little things that are different. Like how many restaurants close between three and five and it’s damn hard to find food at that hour. Even restaurant workers have to take a break you know.

In addition to those little differences are the glaring oddities. I couldn’t believe my eyes the first time I saw a couple with a stroller walking in Da’an Park. I thought it odd they were out so late with a baby (it was nine or ten at night) when I realized they were pushing their little dog around. In a stroller clearly made for a dog.

How about the number of times I’ve seen a pet cat on a leash? The poor miserable thing invariably being hugged by its loving owner, glaring over their shoulder at me. I laughed the first time  I saw that. Now I’ve seen it so many times I barely register it. I don’t remember who I was with anymore the last time I saw this. I just remember them exclaiming “Oh look! A cat!!” And I realized I couldn’t even be bothered to react. Eh. Who cares? Just another mangy old cat on a leash. Nothing exciting happening here.

It makes me realize I need to write these little things down more before I stop noticing them at all. In the first year of living abroad, we’re all focused on the big differences, such as the food, the styles, the homes, the language, and everything else that pops out in a glaringly obvious sort of way, but it’s the little things that stick out more and more, as time goes on.

I think I need a fresh pair of eyes to remind me of the crazy place I’m living in.

Who wants to come to Taipei?

Merry Christmas

Taipei city

Taipei city (Photo credit: :: The 2th RoOm ::)

I’ve posted some negative things about Christmas before, and I can’t apologize.

It seems inevitable that each year when December rolls around I get hit with the Xmas blues earlier in the month. This year was no exception.

However, no matter what, as the event draws nearer I’m reminded by how many special people I have in my life. I’m reminded that we’re all just trying to have a good time, and that no one wants to spend the holidays alone.

It doesn’t feel like Christmas in Taipei. Sure, there are random blow up Santas hanging out in certain metro stations. Displays abound on certain streets and its easy to find a santa hat or two. I saw some candy canes for sale the other day. Incredible.

I’ve managed to hit a couple of nice Christmas parties this year, and was reminded all over again, as I am every year, that Christmas is about spreading the love and the happiness. It is not about being gloomy, or depressed, or grinch-like. Who needs that anyway?

Nevertheless, Christmas abroad and away from my family and friends can be a little sad.

However, instead of feeling sorry for myself, I’ve decided to band together some other Ex-pats and go out and enjoy the holidays.

So we’ll be off to dinner and good cheer later on this evening, and no doubt, tomorrow after work as well.

True, my home isn’t decorated for the holidays, but I’ve never been one to put in more effort than I can stand. And true, I’m not buying a ton of gifts for everyone, nor am I expecting to receive any, but we all know that receiving or giving gifts has never been what Christmas is all about.

Its about spending time with the people we care about. While I can’t be with ALL the people I care about, there are a great many here in Taipei that I do have in mind. Although I won’t get to spend time with all of them this year, I know I’ll be with people who are important to me. And we’ll have a good time, having fun, being on our own, and, most importantly, spending time together.

So I just wanted to wish everyone a Merry Christmas this year, whether you’re religious. Whether you’re enjoying yourself. It is important to spend time with people you care about. No matter how lonely this time of year may be, there is always someone out there thinking of you, even if they can’t be there or they haven’t called, it doesn’t mean that you aren’t in someone’s thoughts.

If you’re lonely this Christmas, make an effort to reach out. Don’t wait for someone to reach out to you. I guarantee that you can make someone’s day or holidays just by taking the time to reach out.

Merry Christmas everyone, and happy holidays to all.

 

Recently, a friend of mine suggested I write a post about things that Americans should bring with them to Taiwan.

Although I understood his perspective, it was difficult to write this post. I’ve been living abroad for two years. It took me longer to find certain things at affordable prices in Poland than it did here. By the time I got here I was already adjusted to living without certain creature comforts, and once I got adjusted it opened my eyes to a world of new comforts that I have adopted. There is just not that much that I can’t live without or can’t substitute. When you live in a developed society it’s difficult to not get your hands on whatever it is that you want. It may take some hunting around, but that  makes the joy all the sweeter when you’ve finally found something you’re craving.

Nevertheless, although you can get your hands on the things you need, you can’t always get your hands on all the things you want.

Below are a few that can be problematic.

10. Smarties, sweet tarts, and nutty bars. You can find a lot of the same candy here, but I have yet to see any of those. I love them its true, but when it comes down to it, I can live without them.

9.  Diet Pepsi. I’ve heard its around. I’ve yet to lay eyes on a single can. Coke products are all over the place, and regular Pepsi is not difficult to find either, but diet? That is an exotic drink over here reserved only for the most resourceful and the most privileged.

8. Solid Mexican food and salsa. Salsa can be found at Costco, Jason’s Market, City Super, and at the occasional Wellcome Mart. Quality salsa, on the other hand, is difficult to find. I’m still searching and I may resort to trying my hand at making some. There are a number of Mexican food restaurants around. I’ve tested out my share, but other than Chili’s, which is so expensive here I’ve only managed to go twice, they won’t measure up to what you can get in the States. I make better Mexican than these yahoos.

7. Quality pizza.  There is pizza galore around but quality pizza is a different story.  We do have Dominos pizza, which I like, but because they’re stupid bastards they can’t be bothered to have their website translated into English. Seriously, who do they think is eating most of their pizza considering they’re an American-owned brand? Jerk offs. That’s just crappy and lazy marketing in my opinion.

We also have Pizza Hut. While they are smart enough to have an English and Mandarin page, they still haven’t quite mastered making pizza. It tastes like DiGiornos. Now that I think of it, I’ve never seen that around here either, but who really craves DiGiornos anyway? To add insult to injury, their only redeeming quality-their bread sticks are not sold here at all. There are also a number of smaller foreign-owned pizza places. Mary Janes comes to mind. Owned by a couple of pot heads their pizza is good, but…it just isn’t the kind of pizza you can find in the US.

6. Bread sticks. Oh. My. God. I have NOT found ANY good bread sticks ANYWHERE in Taiwan. Some places offer some dried crust with dipping sauce and  call it garlic bread. Carrefour does sell a decent garlic bread baguette, but awesome to-die-for bread sticks, in the expected American style with pizza is not to be found.

5. Decent, strong, long-lasting deodorant. I use Ban here and it works for me, but it is also the only brand I’ve found here that works well, and I would never have touched that stuff in the States. I haven’t found Secret anywhere. Brands, such as Nivea deodorant, generally suck. They stop working after four or five hours. In a sweaty humid environment like Taiwan, that’s simply gross. Although Ban can sometimes be difficult to find,  I do occasionally locate the odd dusty stick of it in the strangest places like Family Marts or pharmacies. For whatever reason, it doesn’t seem to be very popular here and every place you would expect to find it doesn’t carry it.

4. Shoes and clothes. A lot of stores don’t carry anything past a size five or six for women. This is completely ludicrous as there are plenty of tall Taiwanese women and this is nothing short of discrimination against them and anyone else who doesn’t have disturbingly small child-like feet. I wear a size eight for crying out loud. When I do find something that fits it’s usually ugly and made for old women. I love shoes, I love shopping for shoes, hell, I love shopping in general. Not being able to readily find shoes and clothes that fit ( at 5’6 and 138 lbs I’m hardly an over-sized monster) turns shopping from the lovely adrenaline pumping, gleeful shopping spree that it should be into an annoying exercise in frustration.

Don’t even ask about underwear and bras. When I go back to the States I’m loading up.

3. Car. There are plenty of them around and not a single one belongs to me. In Taipei its less convenient to have a car than to use the public transport system. It’s difficult to find parking, it takes forever to travel anywhere because of the traffic, and they are expensive to maintain here. That being said, I seriously miss being able to pack up and go outside of the city on a whim. Traveling by train and bus can be fun, but when it comes to rain or traveling outside of Taipei its a drag. Outside of Taipei, a car or scooter is a necessity because many other cities have poor public transport systems. Sometimes buses only run once an hour.  I could get a scooter here no problem but that reeks of setting down roots, and for another year I’m not sure its worth bothering with. We’ll see. I haven’t ruled it out yet.

2.  Turkey Breast. I can’t believe I almost forgot turkey! Costco sells a frozen roast turkey, and Carrefour (the bigger ones) will sell sliced turkey at rather high prices. That’s it. It’s not in the delis or any of the typical grocery stores.  It took some serious investigative work and about six months to find even these two stores.

1. Blonde hair dye. I was worried about this when I first moved here. All the normal local places don’t carry it. However, I did find one Taiwnese store that does sell it and I’ve been good since. It’s the only place anywhere around that I’ve seen it too. It has no English name but if you’re desperate to find some, just ask. Although I am catty enough to snicker when I see some girls walking around with long grown-out dark roots, I’m not so catty as to hoard this secret location all to my selfish greedy self.

What are some of the things you can’t find in Taiwan? What are some good places to shop? I already know about the mall and Zara’s, but do you have any other suggestions?

 

Taipai 101, Keelung River, riverside park and airport.

Recently, a friend posted on FB asking if anyone wanted to do anything outdoorsy. By coincidence this was one of the rare days that I didn’t already have planned out nor were my legs and back particularly acting up. Why not? I thought. It was the type of day that is a shame to spend indoors.

Because I couldn’t handle a bike ride yet, and I definitely can’t handle carrying it down three flights of stairs, we looked around on-line for a hike that I thought I could handle. Taiwan has numerous trails, many of them in or near Taipei. Unfortunately, because Taipei is in a valley and surrounded by mountains, it’s hard to find hikes that don’t require me to be physically fit but I managed to find a site that advertised urban hikes in Taipei.

We chose Jiantan Trail. Steve, Jeremy, and I met up at Jiantan MRT, and walked the four minutes over to the trailhead. Along the way we discussed (my oh-so-favorite subject) my back herniation and their various past and present back problems. I had to laugh. All three of us were in our early thirties, and all three of us currently have an assortment of back problems. From sciatica and general back pain, to bone spurs and biking accidents and circling back to more sciatica and treatment for all three.

Pathetic. We three, young, active sporty people, who all feel as if we are still in the prime of our lives, walked up several hundred stairs up the mountain discussing the efficacy of acupuncture, cortisone shots, and medication. It’s a sad sorry thing to realize that at the ripe old age of thirty, I currently have the body of a 40+year-old. Laughable really.

We made our way up the mountain, and ran came across some  temple grounds.

There’s always a temple around.

Where the locals were celebrating Moon Festival. Of course, it wouldn’t have been a celebration if someone wasn’t singing KTV, and we feared for their enjoyment. But then we stumbled across this:

 
It’s all about the KTV.

We continued on past the temple and strolled the temple grounds for a bit, searching for the continuation of the trail when we ran across an old-school swing set seesaw. I haven’t played or seen one of these since I was a kid. What fun to find one in Taiwan, rusting away up in the mountains at some temple? You won’t these types of old school toy sets in the US anymore. No company could get away with making such a “dangerous” product for today’s sheltered children.

What is this doing at a Temple in Taiwan?

While there we were accosted by an old man who insistently encouraged us to get off the hiking path. Although he spoke English, we had a hard time understanding him. The only thing we could figure out was that he seemed to want us to take some overgrown trail straight up the side of the mountain. Jeremy volunteered to climb up there to see what all the fuss was about. Predictably, it was nothing. He walked around for a minute, clawing his way through some bushes only to see a bunch random trash and barbed wire lying all over the place. There was no trail, no scenic view, and no shortcut to the trail we were already on. Nothing at all to see or enjoy. After Jeremy came back down, the old man then smiled and indicated our path would take us to a nice scenic view too.

I’m pretty sure this guy was just fucking with us. I hate it when Taiwanese people do this. I don’t like being stopped in the street or in the mountains or anywhere, in fact, by overly curious people wanting to know every detail of my life. People offering unasked for help in minimal English, particularly when we clearly knew where we were going, is painfully annoying. I know the Taiwanese pride themselves on being particularly friendly and helpful to foreigners, but Jesus Christ. Let’s not go overboard.

We continued walking around the extensive temple grounds. Typically, the facilities are spaced out over a large area. We saw the outdoor gym, bathrooms, gardens, and various meditation spots. Jeremy took a few scenic photos of the city. We had a great vantage point of Taipei 101, the Keelung River, Dajia Riverside Park, and Songshan Airport.

Let’s get our work out on…

Trip anyone?

Every so often the trails would branch off. Sometimes they had signs and we knew where to go, but occasionally a sign was missing. Never did we find the path branches and various trail markers to be congruent with the map at the temple. None of us particularly wanted to backtrack, so we decided to continue to Jainan Road Station on the brown line. I’ve never taken the brown line that far north before and was interested in taking a look.

A lovely Sunday stroll through the city.

Following the “directions” posted ever so often we attempted to find Jainan Rd. MRT. We lost the trail when it turned into a road but figured if we kept going down we would walk back into civilization with no sweat. Then we lost the road near an army facility where several stray dogs were roaming and decided to go down a very steep driveway/road. It was unclear which one it was at that point, but my drive way suspicions were confirmed when we  dead ended at a house. For the first time ever I saw a cactus in Taiwan. I didn’t even know they could grow in such a wet tropical environment.

How is this thing alive?

No one wanted to backtrack up the insanely steep driveway, so Jeremy scouted around and found a very overgrown path that continued further down. We took that, passing by someone’s garden, and an old, presumably private graveyard, and eventually met up with our previous hiking path at the bottom of the mountain. The path continued up over a traffic tunnel but I pointed out that we could just take the tunnel and avoid the climb. We did. It was long and loud, and when we emerged I realized we had turned back west rather than east. Whoops!

We were losing the light, didn’t know where we were, nor how to get to Jainan MRT. Things were beginning to look scary and bleak as we contemplated the long walk back to the hiking trail in the dark and even longer walk to the train station.

Just kidding. We were still in Taipei, so we did the sensible thing and flagged down a cab, got back to the red line in five minutes, and went home.

Awwww, did you really think we had a scary hiking adventure in northern Taipei? Don’t be silly.

All in all it was a beautiful day, a fun easy-going hike, and a positive step toward activity for me. I’d recommend it for anyone wanting a short relaxed hike without having to leave the city.

%d bloggers like this: